I
was destined
to make Panettone this year! Every Christmas season, I look for something new
to bake. You know, push my baking limits (well, not always) and explore bakes
beyond my existing knowledge and this year one of the things I had decided to
bake was a Panettone. And then I discovered that the Daring Bakers challenge for
the month was also to bake a Panettone!
The December
2012 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by the talented Marcellina of
Marcellina in Cucina. Marcellina challenged us to create our own custom
Panettone, a traditional Italian holiday bread!
A Panettone is a
traditional Christmas bread originally from Milan, but made and sold all over
Italy during the holidays. Once again, there are different accounts about the
Panettone’s origin but the most popular version is a romantic 15th
century one.
It seems that a young noble man named Ughetto Atellani, a falconer in the Court of the Duke Ludovico Maria Sforza, fell in love with Toni who was the daughter of a poor baker. Ughetto apparently disguised himself as a pastry chef’s apprentice and got a job in in her father’s bakery.
To impress Toni, he is supposed to have created a tall fruit studded bread to present to her father and called it “Pan de Toni.” And so it was, and won Ughetto his lady love’s hand in marriage gave Italy its Panettone! There is another version which says the nobleman decided to help out the baker who fell on hard times, and success of the” Pan de Toni” put the bakery back on its feet and the grateful baker agreed to give his daughter’s hand in marriage to the nobleman.
Either way, the bread was a success and everyone – the baker, his daughter, the nobleman and all the Panettone eaters lived happily ever after! Moral of the story? A good bread can make for a very happy ending!! After all, how can a bread that is more like cake, made with eggs, butter, honey, vanilla and lemon zest, dried and candied fruits not be a success?
It seems that a young noble man named Ughetto Atellani, a falconer in the Court of the Duke Ludovico Maria Sforza, fell in love with Toni who was the daughter of a poor baker. Ughetto apparently disguised himself as a pastry chef’s apprentice and got a job in in her father’s bakery.
To impress Toni, he is supposed to have created a tall fruit studded bread to present to her father and called it “Pan de Toni.” And so it was, and won Ughetto his lady love’s hand in marriage gave Italy its Panettone! There is another version which says the nobleman decided to help out the baker who fell on hard times, and success of the” Pan de Toni” put the bakery back on its feet and the grateful baker agreed to give his daughter’s hand in marriage to the nobleman.
Either way, the bread was a success and everyone – the baker, his daughter, the nobleman and all the Panettone eaters lived happily ever after! Moral of the story? A good bread can make for a very happy ending!! After all, how can a bread that is more like cake, made with eggs, butter, honey, vanilla and lemon zest, dried and candied fruits not be a success?
Another version
is the usual one about the seasoned chef-in-charge who for some reason makes a muck
of his dish and then the novice-in-the-kitchen/ dishwasher/ potato peeler jumps
into the act and creates a masterpiece! Here, Toni was a scullion in the Sforza
family kitchen.
On Christmas Eve, the chef responsible for the dessert prepared for the feast burned it! So Toni jumped in and created a yeasted rich bread studded with dried fruit and raisins which as a resounding success. The grateful and happy Duke Ludovico il Moro decided to honour the creator and named it “Pan de Toni”!!
Yet another story attributes the Panettone to a Sister Ughetta who lived in a poor convent with other nun. Obviously Christmas wasn’t going to be very cheerful until she came up with the recipe for a sweet and fragrant yeasted cake on top of which she cut a cross with a knife.
When baked, the scoring on the cake created a pattern which many traditional style Panettone still carry even today.
Interestingly, “ughett” apparently is the word for raisins in Milanese dialect!
On Christmas Eve, the chef responsible for the dessert prepared for the feast burned it! So Toni jumped in and created a yeasted rich bread studded with dried fruit and raisins which as a resounding success. The grateful and happy Duke Ludovico il Moro decided to honour the creator and named it “Pan de Toni”!!
Yet another story attributes the Panettone to a Sister Ughetta who lived in a poor convent with other nun. Obviously Christmas wasn’t going to be very cheerful until she came up with the recipe for a sweet and fragrant yeasted cake on top of which she cut a cross with a knife.
When baked, the scoring on the cake created a pattern which many traditional style Panettone still carry even today.
Interestingly, “ughett” apparently is the word for raisins in Milanese dialect!
Panettone is no
longer kept just for Christmas and is baked throughout the year and is often
served at brunch or even as part of dessert with cheese and wine. The original
Panettone was a flatter and less rich bake. With time, it got richer and took
on the tall shape that is typical of Panettone seen today.
To get this shape with a cupola like top, Panettone is baked in tall straight or fluted paper moulds or tin cans traditionally moulds that are very high sided which come either straight or fluted.
To get this shape with a cupola like top, Panettone is baked in tall straight or fluted paper moulds or tin cans traditionally moulds that are very high sided which come either straight or fluted.
If you can’t
find the moulds you can make your own moulds or bake it in a spring form cake
tin (high sided or regular), a tube pan or anything else you think you have
that might work. Just remember it needs to be oven-proof. I used a spring form
cake tin lined along the side with a tall ring of parchment paper.
So was that
sheer coincidence or a sign that the Daring Baker challenge this month was to
bake a Panettone? Either way, it meant I was going to make that Panettone and
also that I was doing a Daring Bakers challenge after a bit of a break, once
again. The only thing was that I had already decided on a recipe to make my Panetton,
when I saw the challenge recipe.
While probably
more authentic a recipe than the one I had chosen, the challenge recipe
included two pre-ferments, an overnight rise, 7 eggs, about 350gm of butter and
an almost sure thing of the Panettone possibly tearing apart from its bottom!
If I point out the not-so-good stuff about the challenge Panettone, I have to
play fair and also point out that all the butter and eggs make 2 really good
Panettone, and when has festive and celebratory baking ever been about anything
but a lot butter and eggs?
Knowing I
couldn’t justify (at any level) the use of so much butter and eggs in my bakes
while making a point to eat healthier, not even eating smaller portions and
sharing with the neighbours, I decided to make the Panettone but with my chosen
recipe. I chose this recipe for a couple of reasons.
The first being that it didn’t take me half of the week to make it, and second was that though it took less time than the traditional version it involved making a “sponge/ biga/ poolish” or pre-ferment.
After some reading on the subject, it is clear that what makes the difference in flavour and texture of Panettone is the pre-ferment.
The final reason that swung this recipe for me was the number of absolutely positive reviews about it from people who had made it before.
This Panettone is pretty easy to make and you will be delighted with the bread that comes out of your oven. Feel free to use the original recipe or tweak it to suit your taste like I did. You will rarely find dried peel in my recipes because I don’t like them, though tutti-frutti is ok.
I used whatever dried and candied fruit and nuts I had on hand. I also adapted the almond-sugar glaze from the challenge recipe to use on my Panettone. The glaze makes for a very tasty and crunchy texture on the Panettone which I would definitely recommend making.
I also added sugar bits which made for a nice sweet crunch on a not very sweet bread. If you don’t have sugar bits, you can sprinkle the top with brown sugar or broken/ crushed sugar cubes.
The first being that it didn’t take me half of the week to make it, and second was that though it took less time than the traditional version it involved making a “sponge/ biga/ poolish” or pre-ferment.
After some reading on the subject, it is clear that what makes the difference in flavour and texture of Panettone is the pre-ferment.
The final reason that swung this recipe for me was the number of absolutely positive reviews about it from people who had made it before.
This Panettone is pretty easy to make and you will be delighted with the bread that comes out of your oven. Feel free to use the original recipe or tweak it to suit your taste like I did. You will rarely find dried peel in my recipes because I don’t like them, though tutti-frutti is ok.
I used whatever dried and candied fruit and nuts I had on hand. I also adapted the almond-sugar glaze from the challenge recipe to use on my Panettone. The glaze makes for a very tasty and crunchy texture on the Panettone which I would definitely recommend making.
I also added sugar bits which made for a nice sweet crunch on a not very sweet bread. If you don’t have sugar bits, you can sprinkle the top with brown sugar or broken/ crushed sugar cubes.
Panettone – A
Christmas Yeasted Fruit Bread From Italy
(Adapted from
King Arthur Flour)
Ingredients:
For The Pre-ferment
(Sponge/ Biga/ Poolish):
1 1/2 cups all-purpose
flour
1/2 cup cool
water
1/16 tsp instant
yeast
For the dough:
2 eggs, lightly
beaten
100gm butter,
soft at room temperature
2 1/2 cups all-purpose
flour
1/3 cup sugar
4 1/2 tsp
instant yeast
1 1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp vanilla
extract
1/2 tsp orange
blossom water (or orange extract)
Zest of 1 medium
sized orange
1 1/2 cups dried
fruit and nuts (black currants/ raisins, cranberries, chopped apricots, chopped
candied ginger, tutti frutti, chopped almonds)
For the glaze:
1/3 cup whole
almonds
1/4 cup icing
sugar
1 1/2 tbsp
all-purpose flour
2 tbsp milk (and
a bit more if needed)
1 tbsp oil
Sugar bits for
decoration (optional)
Method:
Make the biga by
mixing the flour, water and yeast in a medium to large bowl, with a wooden
spoon. You will have a dough which is a
bit stiff and that’s alright as it will bubble up by next morning. Cover the
bowl loosely and allow it to rise overnight, about 12 hours when it will be
bubbly.
The dough for
Panettone is quite sticky so working it by hand can be difficult and a dough
kneader or food processor will make things easier. I used my food processor.
Put the sponge/
biga/ polish and all the other ingredients for the dough, except the dried
fruit and nuts and knead, on slow speed, till it comes together as a dough.
This will be very sticky initially but eventually form some sort of a smooth-ish
dough that’s still a bit sticky.
Oil your palms
and shape the dough into a ball. Place it in a well-oiled bowl, turn it round
to coat it well, cover and let it rest for about an hour and a half. The dough
will not rise as much as you might expect it to.
Flatten out dough
by hand as much as you can and spread the dried fruit and nuts across the
surface. Roll up the dough in any way you want and then knead it gently just until
the fruit seems well dispersed in the dough.
Place the dough
in a lightly greased bowl, and allow it to rest for an hour. It won't rise
much; that's OK. Over handling will
cause the fruit to release too much sugar into the dough, slowing its rise. Rest
the dough for 15 minutes.
During this
time, prepare your baking tin if not using Panettone moulds. Line the tin on
the base and sides with parchment paper. If using a spring form cake tin, line
the sides with parchment cut to about twice the height of the side of your cake
tin to allow the bread to rise while it bakes.
I used an 8” spring form cake
tin. Remember that the narrower/ lesser
the diameter of your baking tin, the taller your Panettone will be and the
longer it will need to bake to ensure the middle is cooked properly.
Also prepare the
almond glaze. Run the almonds (blanched or unblanched) with the icing sugar in
a small jar of your blender or a spice grinder till the almonds are coarsely powdered.
Mix this with the other ingredients for the glaze until you have a quite thick
mixture which can be brushed onto the Panettone.
Place the dough
in your prepared tin, cover the top and allow the dough to rise for about 2 to
2 1/2 hours. The dough will rise less than it will for other breads, but it
should still rise a bit. It will rise higher while baking. Brush almond glaze
gently but well, all over the surface of the risen dough. Sprinkle the sugar bits over this.
Bake the
Panettone at 180C (350F) for about 30 to 45 minutes till the Panettone is done.
A cake tester/ skewer poked into the centre should come out dry, without any
crumbs or wet dough clinging to it. If the Panettone is browning too quickly
during baking, cover it with aluminium foil.
Remove from the
oven and cool it in the pan for about 5 to 10 minutes, then unmould and cool
the Panettone on a rack.
This Panettone
should serve about 10 to 12 people.
Don’t forget to
see what the rest of the Daring Bakers have baked.
This Panettone is being
YeastSpotted!








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